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Cutting Colorbond to Custom Shapes


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Is there a Colorbond supplier in Sydney, or that will deliver to Sydney for a reasonable price, that will cut Colorbond to non-rectangular shapes?

I want to replace the four panels that form the corners of a veranda roof. The panels are triangular (roughly 45deg across the corrugations).

Bunnings will order sheets cut to length, but I enquired about angled cuts and their supplier won't do it.

DIY, with an angle grinder and specific cutting wheel, looks possible but painful. I'd prefer to pay to get it done nicely.

Thanks!

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8 minutes ago, Limited said:

I've cut sheets using an angle grinder for some fencing. It was pretty easy and it was only the 3rd time i've used a grinder

Yep its easy, but angle grinders can be a bit of a handful if you aren't careful. 

Have a look at a nibbler, they are designed for just this purpose not sure if they are exxy or not. 

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9 minutes ago, Limited said:

I've cut sheets using an angle grinder for some fencing. It was pretty easy and it was only the 3rd time i've used a grinder

The problem with using an angle grinder on colourbond is the rough edge that's left. Make sure you file that smooth, or you're asking for rust (and cuts). As Roxii said, a nibbler works well, but if the supplier can cut to size, then even better.

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A nibbler is the way to go but a grinder can be a stop gap.

Makita developed a cold cut steel saw back in my steel days, model 4131 these days, predominantly for the tubemakers flooring system - it works well on roofing and walling profiles as well as the rhs it was designed for.

whatever you use, it is not a bad idea to give the cut edge a quick spray with a zinc enriched paint. You will get some sacrificial barrier coating rust protection without it but, in my opinion, it doesn’t hurt to ‘seal up’ the bare steel.

wear gloves as the burrs on that shit can cut you!

 

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Two roofing places have said no can do - still emailing a few more before I give up and buy a cheap drill powered nibbler. I should have a fair bit of scrap to practice on, and all the edges should be under flashing.

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Like others have said, try to get it cut by the manufacturer or contractor as the manufacturer will have a guillotine type of arrangement which is a mechanical cut therefore preserving the treatment which makes colourbond good. As will the subbie as they'd use nibblers(mech cut). Nibbling colourbond is tricky, I'd get it professionally done. 

 

Avoid heat or grinding at all as it'll wreck the treatment. 

 

Sorry for the late reply 

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Here’s an even later reply!

i really wish people would stop talking about nibblers 

there isn’t a single tradie that would use a nibbler to cut a roof sheet 

they all use electric shears which works in exactly the same way as the good old fashioned hand powered variety’s 

so unless you plan to cut a heap of sheets, decent hand sins will be more than good enough 

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Thanks for the advice.

These drill-powered shears are OK price-wise, even for a one-off compared to the quotes I've got from a roofing company to do the whole job...

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dewalt-impact-shear-attachment_p0132953

Hand snips seems like a less fun option - I can imagine in the middle of the sheet it'd start getting tough. Maybe I should suck it up, and just cut one sheet a day - I'm not in a rush

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On 25/02/2020 at 10:21 AM, toolex said:

Thanks for the advice.

These drill-powered shears are OK price-wise, even for a one-off compared to the quotes I've got from a roofing company to do the whole job...

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dewalt-impact-shear-attachment_p0132953

Hand snips seems like a less fun option - I can imagine in the middle of the sheet it'd start getting tough. Maybe I should suck it up, and just cut one sheet a day - I'm not in a rush

Yeah that's the go 👍

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  • 1 month later...

Cut number one done. Tried some pro shears lent by a friend - they were awesome on the "downhill", but going uphill was IMPOSSIBLE. Got through it with a bit of elbow grease using the tin snips inherited from my grandfather, rust and all. Not the prettiest cut, I think if I touch up the edges it should be OK. If not, I can replace that sheet if it rusts before all the others.

Three cuts to go if I get lucky with overlaps, otherwise seven to go... Shoulder/bicep is going to interesting tonight...

 

IMG_3604.JPG

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4 hours ago, toolex said:

Cut number one done. Tried some pro shears lent by a friend - they were awesome on the "downhill", but going uphill was IMPOSSIBLE. Got through it with a bit of elbow grease using the tin snips inherited from my grandfather, rust and all. Not the prettiest cut, I think if I touch up the edges it should be OK. If not, I can replace that sheet if it rusts before all the others.

Three cuts to go if I get lucky with overlaps, otherwise seven to go... Shoulder/bicep is going to interesting tonight...

 

IMG_3604.JPG

Good work mate 

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4 hours ago, toolex said:

Cut number one done. Tried some pro shears lent by a friend - they were awesome on the "downhill", but going uphill was IMPOSSIBLE. Got through it with a bit of elbow grease using the tin snips inherited from my grandfather, rust and all. Not the prettiest cut, I think if I touch up the edges it should be OK. If not, I can replace that sheet if it rusts before all the others...

Missed this thread earlier...  It's looks like you've got yourself sorted, so well done, but for future reference I'd have just used WISS Snips.

I spent several years working as a roofing contractor putting on sheet metal rooves so have actually cut hundreds of sheets, most of them at a 45% angle up a hip or valley just as you've done.  You can actually use any of the items suggested above, but a grinder with a metal blade is by far the quickest and easiest method - but it's also the most dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.  The biggest problem with a grinder or metal saw is that it puts sparks all over the sheet which burn into the colorbond coating, the other problem (as also mentioned above) is that it's leaves the cut edge very burred and sharp!

My preferred method, and what I used on most jobs, were simply a pair of Aviation (WISS) Snips.  They are not cheap (if you buy genuine WISS brand) and you need to buy two pairs (left & right offset) but they are well worth the money.  The waste side of the snips always goes up, so depending on which way you are going you choose either the left or the right snips.

As a plumber, roofing was my favourite work and I'd probably still be doing it if it wasn't for concerns regarding skin cancer etc.  I wish my hands (and back) were still as strong as they were back then!  :thumbsup:

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Cool thanks. Not sure what brand the snips I'm using are, but pretty sure they're not aircraft standard. It's very hard not to mar the surface adjacent to the cut though. I thought the coating would be tougher/harder.

Got a bit stuck when I found the top of some of the sheets have a screw that is BEHIND a fascia board. I took a tile out and can see the screw head, but the angle of the drill and socket drive wouldn't work to get the screw out. I don't have a 5/16" spanner, so Bunnings it is tomorrow to get a spanner or socket to go with a wrench. Luckily Bunnings counts as an "essential service" in these times.

Shame it's raining now given there is one sheet that's missing. Not so much different to the previous situation with rust holes I guess. The sandstone patio underneath should be able to handle a bit of rain.

 

 

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