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Have some play in rear wheel and LBS have indicated that the rims themselves are very worn and wheels should be replaced...

The 'wear indicators' are not visible on the rear and barely there on the front. Are they seriously toast or are these more of a guideline...?

Fulcrums 5's that have not been maintained or cleaned much and have been ridden in the rain a bit as well..

The last thing I want is for one of them to let go when I am doing my Cootha repeats in the dark and wet...

 

 

 

 

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18 minutes ago, willie said:

bin em or turn them into trainer wheels... Those guides are definitely there for a reason! I nearly killed myself when the brake surface broke through years ago. Metal had worn so thing that when I went for the death grip it locked up my front wheel and I went over the bars.

Pretty sure Ex or one of the other older guys here did the same as well

Mine did the same, but I was lucky that the metal peeled away in the right direction, so it just rubbed on the brake pad as it went under it rather than the peeled end jamming into the pad..

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thats the thing i am checking tonight, apparently if you place a flat ruler across the edge of surface and its concave then it is also time to spend some cash...

 

#newbiketime

#cantafforditrightnow

#cervelo

#simplyfaster

#runwith

#zippwheels

#speedweaponary

 

sorry about hashtags but I just saw Cranky is using lots so figured it is the way to do it...

  • Haha 2
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2 hours ago, pieman said:

thats the thing i am checking tonight, apparently if you place a flat ruler across the edge of surface and its concave then it is also time to spend some cash...

 

A crude method is inflate to 150 psi, if the blow apart then there we stuffed, if the don't fail then okay.

#diskbrakesrule

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Interesting comments. Making me look at the fulcrum wheels on my roadie a bit closer. The shit roads the Saturday morning group ride on makes me think it might be time for an update of wheels. Last thing I want to have is a wheel failure and bring down 20 odd riders.

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Like a lot of things cycling, probably pays to be conservative.  If rim wear indicators gone take notice.

As to second line checks and approaches, if feeling chancy

Check concavity using a metal straight edge metal ruler. But any rim with some degree of wear will usually have some concavity.

Use dental calipers (below) and measure wall thickness  all the way around in small steps.

Dont brake  on that rim.

61pzYl18eeL._SX425_.jpg

 

We all have or have heard of stories of catastrophic failures and consequences.

I have one rim on an old (ancient actually)  trispoke front at 0.8mm thickness. Borderline. I barely brake on it and am looking for  a replacement. I bought calipers to measure.

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  • 1 year later...

I had some C24 that I rode quite a bit, did a trip to France with them, then was having the bike cleaned for Tour of Bright, and the bike shop rang me to tell me the frame was cracked and that I needed to replace the wheels.

They were spot on with both issues (got the frame fixed) and tossed the wheels, the rim surface was nearly paper thin, I hate to imagine what could of been during the descent of the Galibier or others.......

 

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After I found out alloy rims actually wear (I thought that's what the brake pads were for), I took my wheels too my lbs to get their opinion.  He shuddered at the concave brake tracks and told me to bin them immediately.

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13 minutes ago, Naut said:

Looks fine, who uses brakes anyway!

 

I was away recently and did a bit of hill work.. I mentioned to my wife that I should probably get my bike looked at because it's getting on a bit & I was losing a bit of confidence in descending on it.

First day back home, I heard a clicking noise & thought the wheels just needed aligning, so I just loosened off the breaks mid ride... then when I got home, I had a proper look & saw the crack...could have been a bit nasty given I'd been on some pretty sharp hills.

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On 11/04/2019 at 2:11 PM, pieman said:

Have some play in rear wheel and LBS have indicated that the rims themselves are very worn and wheels should be replaced...

The 'wear indicators' are not visible on the rear and barely there on the front. Are they seriously toast or are these more of a guideline...?

Fulcrums 5's that have not been maintained or cleaned much and have been ridden in the rain a bit as well..

The last thing I want is for one of them to let go when I am doing my Cootha repeats in the dark and wet...

 

 

 

 

Looks like you  might be using your rear brake too much - it should show far less wear than the front - if any at all.  

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On 18/02/2021 at 1:37 PM, goughy said:

After I found out alloy rims actually wear (I thought that's what the brake pads were for), I took my wheels too my lbs to get their opinion.  He shuddered at the concave brake tracks and told me to bin them immediately.

Interestingly my campy wheels from around 2003 are fine. I even had the bike shop check them out as I was considering my options after a crash - but all good. They have also never been trued or lost a spoke. Lucky me :)

 

Edited by dazaau
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On 18/02/2021 at 4:46 PM, rory-dognz said:

Wouldn't have happened with disk brakes!!!!!

But apparently you don't need them!!

So for those keen on saving a $, would it be cheaper in the long run to replace worn discs (easily enough done - have done this for a mtb on commuting duty), rather than replace rim-braking wheels when the rims are cactus (presumably uneconomic to rebuild the wheel to keep the spokes and hubs?)?

That is, maybe there’s a business case for disc brakes?

Edited by trilobite
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20 hours ago, trilobite said:

So for those keen on saving a $, would it be cheaper in the long run to replace worn discs (easily enough done - have done this for a mtb on commuting duty), rather than replace rim-braking wheels when the rims are cactus (presumably uneconomic to rebuild the wheel to keep the spokes and hubs?)?

That is, maybe there’s a business case for disc brakes?

I recently changed the front disc on my Trek Domane with around 52,000kms on the bike for $74.

My previous Cannondale with rim brakes I used to go through a set of rims around every 15 -> 20,000 kms. I can't remember all the models of wheels I went through on that bike but I'm guessing they would have been around $500 a pair.

I have used these bikes for commuting all year round in Melbourne so there is lots of wet weather riding, lots of bike paths, plus lots of hill riding so the brakes do get a decent workout.

The original wheels on my Cannondale were a set of Ksyrium SLs and they lasted 43,000kms. For the first 35k or so I only used the bike for training but then started using it for commuting and the wet weather/bike tracks riding certainly shortened their life. The rear wheel on the Ksyriums blew out on me on Kew Boulevard one morning resulting in a walk for the last 7kms or so to work. I'm glad it was the rear one as it locked the wheel up and I didn't go down 

From my experience there are certainly both financial and performance benefits of having disc brakes especially if you regularly ride in wet weather. Having said that, now that I've been working from home for nearly 12 months, I'm less inclined to go out for a faux commute ride in the morning if it is pouring rain.

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On 21/02/2021 at 10:05 AM, POT said:

My previous Cannondale with rim brakes I used to go through a set of rims around every 15 -> 20,000 kms. I can't remember all the models of wheels I went through on that bike but I'm guessing they would have been around $500 a pair.

I'd have thought no longer having the excuse to buy new wheels would be a negative? 😜

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