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using the magic lantern software I can make my Canon create HDR videos. here is my first attempt (forgive the boring subject matter but it gets the point across!) This could be a great tool for when overly backlit or front lit lighting making your video difficult. :)

 

 

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9483550668_68f5f06240_c.jpg

 

3 hours of 30 second exposures last night. Looks like no meteors or satellites.

 

and the timelapse video, only worth looking at fullscreen HD, With the ISO up higher the milky way was more visible but camera noise ot of control, even in this at ISO 200 you can see everything that doesn't move is a hot pixel on the sensor.

 

 

Edited by Parkside
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Last Night's Star trails

 

9pm-10:10pm, ISO800, 30s

 

What do you think that is at the bottom left?

 

StarStaX_IMG_9234-IMG_9354_gap_filling_z

 

Original

 

IMG_9234_zpse28c4780.jpg

 

And another, 10:40-12:30, ISO800, 38s

 

Original

 

IMG_9390_zps9a421761.jpg

 

 

Star Trail

 

StarStaX_IMG_9390-IMG_9526_gap_filling_z

 

Just noticed possibly a satellite on the last one as well, midway down on the right hand side.

Edited by nealo
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Look again I reckon you'll find it. There's a site you can look up and enter your GPS location and it will show you exact location and time of satellites overhead

 

Looked through 10 shots three times and couldn't find anything.

 

Loaded them into Star Trax again and watched it compile them. This time I watched it process the shots one by one and you can see the "satellite" added shot by shot. So it's not on any one frame.

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  • 1 month later...

Just been up the bush for a few days. very little light pollution. Only a short timelapse but Milky way far more visible than in the city. Watch in HD fullscreen

 

 

 

9992699496_d20e05e139_c.jpg

 

Love it - you can't seem to get the cloudy stuff here close to the city so I'm looking forward to my annual pilgrimage to Bright for the Alpine in January for something similar - i hope! What settings were you using Parky?

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Time lapse of setup-race-packup of our kids' race today. I read somewhere around 1 second exposure is a good amount of image blur for "people" timelapse but given the setup was before sunrise I knew the lighting conditions were going to change and I would be too busy during the event to play with it so I opted for Av (rather than manual). Lighting picked up so I added a ND filter and kept the ISO nice and low and the aperture down quite a ways. I used a repetition rate of 10 seconds using the inbuilt "magic lantern" intervalometer function that would guarantee me enough time between frames yet short enough to avoid jerkiness (Av mode made it hard to predict what the actual shutter speed was ever going to be, but I think it varied from about 1 second to about 4 seconds maybe?

About 3 or 4 hours total packed into 30 seconds. I think it worked OK. I've done timelapse by simply speeding up a video but I think the ability to use a long exposure really makes the DSLR a much better choice. And I reckon the Av mode really kept a lid on big exposure changes. What do you think?

 

 

 

If you want to know what is going on the the order is

Setup

Bikes in first race. Bikes out on to bike course and back again. Bikes out

Bikes in second race. Bikes out on to bike course and back again. Bikes out.

Bikes in second race. Bikes out on to bike course and back again. Bikes out.

Pack up.

Edited by Pete
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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

and second decent one, the intervalometer is a knock-off of the Canon one, sometimes using as a normal shutter release it doesn't work, always seems OK doing the interval

 

<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/83941383" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/83941383">Bundeena1</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user23704998">Matt McEwan</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

Edited by Parkside
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Great stuff Parky. Curious to know how you set it up.

eg I was told that around 1 second is good for "people" shots so I gave this a crack the other day at a local kids race.

I think it worked OK but I had to use a ND filter to get the exposure long enough but the lighting changes so how do you set up the camera?

As it happens I think i set the intervelometer to click every 1.5 seconds and set the camera in Av mode (rather than M) as I the lighting was changing pretty dramatically and I could not be there to look after it. I read somewhere it is better to have the shutter speed change rather than aperture so I tried this and bumped the aperture every 15 minutes or so or whenever I could get to the camera (I was officiating on the day) to try and keep the shutter at about 1 second.

 

 

 

it's a big problem with sunsets too and still not sure how to set it up so it can work automatically. Magic lantern has some kind of exposure ramp with the built in intervelometer but I havent really had the time to play with it.

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I am just running with the instructions in the e-book.

 

That one above is pic every 3 seconds, Shot in M, I adjusted the ISO and F-stop to give a correctly exposed image at shutter speed of 1/60 for the first shot, manual focus and I think I left it for 20 minutes. The MSU deflicker plugin on Virtual dub flattens out the differening light such as the clouds in that one, I was quite surprised. Processed without compression then saved as MPEG using Movie Maker.

 

I have just done a comparison of Vimeo and YouTube and cannot work out how YouTube can be so awful with HD video.

 

For sunsets you may need to use bulb-ramping, it changes the shutter speed gradually as the light changes. If Magic Lantern doesn't do it you need yet another gadget to plug in to the camera. Otherwise use Av priority, the different shutter speeds will cause some flickering but you can edit that out later apparently.

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  • 2 months later...

One thing I've always wanted to do is to take high speed actions shots - the classics like a glass shattering, balloon popping - that sort of thing. So I sat down with my 9YO son a few nights back and, using a programmable microcontroller board, a sound module, remote flash and some software we quickly cobbled together we finally got the shot we were after - the water balloon pop! :lol:

 

2rfep0y.jpg

 

This shot was taken in an almost completely dark room using a little canon G15 (I lent my big canon to a mate who needed a camera for a DSLR course) with an 8 second exposure and a remote flash triggered by the microcontroller. (flash and camera work completely independently). Definitely a team effort - I got the lights, my son adjusted the threshold and armed the flash controller and then triggered the camera and I popped the balloon. Not sure of the delay but I am guessing it is somewhere around 1 to 5 milliseconds maybe? As you can see the water is still in the shape of the balloon but the rubber has popped away. Unfortunately it is not sensitive enough to do the water droplet thing - well actually it is, the sound module is a very sensitive electret power mic. but my software is a little rough around the edges and dealing with audio levels in real time is not my forte, apparently. :)

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  • 4 months later...
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For what it's worth I learnt a new thing today (holidaying in the Greek islands :)) - if you want to use fill-in flash in bright sunlight you need to darken the background (using shutter speed) and increase the flash effect (using F-stop). However the problem is that with my camera you can only go up to 1/250 (flash synch) shutter speed which max's out the ability to darken the background relative to the flash subject.

So I tried using a variable ND filter now to darken the whole thing and then drop the F-stop back to something in the small single digits and it all seemed to work out ok. (or have I got that all completely wrong..?! - camera nuts, please advise! :))

Edited by Pete
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These are nice but you may want to think about composition a bit more. You are lacking in foreground subject which will make the video much more interesting.

Thanks.

 

Testing new bulb ramper and time lapse plugin software so did these 2 off the front verandah and the roof facing west. Will get more creative once I've learned a bit more and stopped dumb mistakes

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For what it's worth I learnt a new thing today (holidaying in the Greek islands :)) - if you want to use fill-in flash in bright sunlight you need to darken the background (using shutter speed) and increase the flash effect (using F-stop). However the problem is that with my camera you can only go up to 1/250 (flash synch) shutter speed which max's out the ability to darken the background relative to the flash subject.

So I tried using a variable ND filter now to darken the whole thing and then drop the F-stop back to something in the small single digits and it all seemed to work out ok. (or have I got that all completely wrong..?! - camera nuts, please advise! :))

Hi Pete, does your camera has flash strength adjustment option? If it is a nikon then press the flash button and turn the dial. It will reduce the flash strength. Then you can simply expose for the background and use a -1 ev flash stop to provide natural fill in.

 

Another thing to keep in mind is to keep the subject between you and camera in sunny locations

Edited by Arpit
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Hi Pete, does your camera has flash strength adjustment option? If it is a nikon then press the flash button and turn the dial. It will reduce the flash strength. Then you can simply expose for the background and use a -1 ev flash stop to provide natural fill in.

 

Another thing to keep in mind is to keep the subject between you and camera in sunny locations

 

Thanks, that makes more sense - It's a Canon but you can change the flash intensity via a menu window - I will give it a try today and see how it goes. Parky's awesome shots are giving me inspiration for an intervelometer shot - I have a tripod here and I'll dig around my SD cards and see if I have magic lantern on any of them :)

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Next one. Hiked into this location before dawn. tried a timelapse of stars and a satellite flare overhead but was too light and I stuffed it. quickly turned around and tried to salvage the morning by capturing this. I really should have been on top of the headland in the distance.

 

 

Edited by Parkside
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