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Indoor Cycling Help: Smart Trainers / Software [Zwift etc]

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20 minutes ago, Naut said:

I have quite a low max HR and all my HR zones in Zwift look nuts as it seems to think my max HR is much higher than it is. All my research suggests you can set your max HR in Zwift but I can't find anywhere. Can anyone point me to the right place? It's not in my settings where I put height and weight.

I just went and checked on this and it works on my windows laptop. you have to go into the actual game, then menu, and under your name at the top (by your national flag) you can click edit and that is where you can change FTP and max HR (as well as height weight etc)

 

let me know if it works

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59 minutes ago, pieman said:

I just went and checked on this and it works on my windows laptop. you have to go into the actual game, then menu, and under your name at the top (by your national flag) you can click edit and that is where you can change FTP and max HR (as well as height weight etc)

 

let me know if it works

Worked. Weird it didn't show on my phone but did on my laptop.

Thanks!!!

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I struck out, my Gen1 Kickr I think has died.  When plugged in to power I get no BT signal, even after powering off every BT signal in the garage including apple TV, iphone.  I can't even turn the pedal more than a 1/4 turn (like it has a brake on).  Yet if I remove the power, the flywheel spins just fine.

Have raised a support ticket on Sunday night, but I'm guessing the electronics are buggered.

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On 09/05/2020 at 9:00 AM, pieman said:

So Wahoo have said this is 'most likely a belt issue'.. i am no engineer but it doesnt sound like a belt issue...

Shows what I know..replaced belt and metallic grating sound has gone..

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On 07/05/2020 at 6:46 PM, Bored@work said:

Wahoo just responded to my mates issue with his:

“Your kickr needs a replacement top cap however this part is no longer available 
Unfortunately your kickr has no further service life.

What a shit response 

I just got that very same response.......word for word.  Very dissappointing as whilst I've had it for years, I'd be stunned if it had even done 5K as I much prefer to ride outdoors.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Blobby said:

I struck out, my Gen1 Kickr I think has died.  When plugged in to power I get no BT signal, even after powering off every BT signal in the garage including apple TV, iphone.  I can't even turn the pedal more than a 1/4 turn (like it has a brake on).  Yet if I remove the power, the flywheel spins just fine.

Have raised a support ticket on Sunday night, but I'm guessing the electronics are buggered.

how old is it?

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About as old as me, geriatric & over the hill.  Gen 1 so its a 2014, but probably 4 years old. The bit that annoys me if it was the mechanical side of things that is no good due to wear and tear I would understand better, however for electronics that are relatively cheap, small to store, its a little more frustrating. 

I could quite honestly say that it has done less than 5000km as I ride mostly outdoors (rain hail or shine).

I guess its just their way of keeping people on the latest euipment.

 

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Quick question- am I missing anything by running Zwift off the iPad? I have never had an issue + always works but seeing everyone running more elaborate setups just checking if I am missing something in the experience etc 

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28 minutes ago, Bosco said:

Quick question- am I missing anything by running Zwift off the iPad? I have never had an issue + always works but seeing everyone running more elaborate setups just checking if I am missing something in the experience etc 

I've run off my iPad mini lots of times (via BT).  Can't see any difference than running it off my Mac Book (with Ant +).  I don't use the companion app whilst riding, so everything looks and works the same for me.

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35 minutes ago, Bosco said:

Quick question- am I missing anything by running Zwift off the iPad? I have never had an issue + always works but seeing everyone running more elaborate setups just checking if I am missing something in the experience etc 

Provided you can reach the iPad to use power-ups and the like, then the only other things I would be worried about are:

  • Screen size - bigger screen makes it easier to see what others watts/kg are and read the profile so you know when the hills are coming
  • Companion app - I actually use this on my phone to use power-ups and the mass kudos feature is pretty handy

The first few times I used Zwift I ran it entirely off an iPhone7 with no issues except the tiny screen was driving me insane.

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Does anyone mess with their trainer difficulty setting in Zwift when racing? I have mine set to 100% constantly, but I was reading that some people reduce it to 50% or even 0% for hilly races as it softens the gradient change or something.

Seems like cheating to me but I also don't fully understand what trainer difficulty does.

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Just now, Naut said:

Does anyone mess with their trainer difficulty setting in Zwift when racing? I have mine set to 100% constantly, but I was reading that some people reduce it to 50% or even 0% for hilly races as it softens the gradient change or something.

Seems like cheating to me but I also don't fully understand what trainer difficulty does.

I've never changed from the default 50%. I think the theory is that if you have it at less than 50%, it does soften the gradient but also reduces your speed to compensate but not sure.

It's hard enough getting up that radio tower as it is!

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2 hours ago, Bosco said:

Quick question- am I missing anything by running Zwift off the iPad? I have never had an issue + always works but seeing everyone running more elaborate setups just checking if I am missing something in the experience etc 

I've always run zwift on big TVs, my latest is 55" and it looks awesome and adds to the experience. 

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4 hours ago, Naut said:

Does anyone mess with their trainer difficulty setting in Zwift when racing? I have mine set to 100% constantly, but I was reading that some people reduce it to 50% or even 0% for hilly races as it softens the gradient change or something.

Seems like cheating to me but I also don't fully understand what trainer difficulty does.

I leave it 100% on theory the hill outside doesn’t say I’ll make it feel easier while not reducing slope or increasing your power 

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Zwift has got too hurry up on the sandbagging control.

5 guys filtered on Zwift power all came top ten in A with power well over 4 w kg. But they are in the race and are agreeing with the dynamic plus Zwift companion app does not filter them out.
 

its the difference between bing in top 5 in a b grade race with a chance to win and being in pack 2 with no chance because pack 1 are putting out a grade numbers

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35 minutes ago, BarryBevan said:

Zwift has got too hurry up on the sandbagging control.

5 guys filtered on Zwift power all came top ten in A with power well over 4 w kg. But they are in the race and are agreeing with the dynamic plus Zwift companion app does not filter them out.
 

its the difference between bing in top 5 in a b grade race with a chance to win and being in pack 2 with no chance because pack 1 are putting out a grade numbers

Stop taking it seriously, your mood will be immeasurably better.

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28 minutes ago, FatPom said:

Stop taking it seriously, your mood will be immeasurably better.

I have been enjoying the decay of mood from surly into dour and positively loco.

#stop zwift sandbagging

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9 hours ago, FatPom said:

Stop taking it seriously, your mood will be immeasurably better.

I'm not that bothered about the placing or cheating or whatever, but it does mess up the racing. You go off in the lead pack for C, you have 4 guys on 4 w/kg and staying there, eventually everyone pops and the whole group separates. You want to work with guys of a similar ability. 

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1 minute ago, zed said:

I'm not that bothered about the placing or cheating or whatever, but it does mess up the racing. You go off in the lead pack for C, you have 4 guys on 4 w/kg and staying there, eventually everyone pops and the whole group separates. You want to work with guys of a similar ability. 

Yep, I don't care if i come last, but in an average shorter race in a fair B pack I ride in that until the final move, when its doped up you get shelled like you do from the A thinking you are chasing B and then when you drop to the real B pack you are a bit tired.

It messes the race dynamic and makes me sad😢

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Does anyone know how to reset an Elite Drivo. Its seems unable to get a connection over bluetooth, My phone gets a preliminary connection but the blue light indicating a connection continues to flash. and the elite app can't find the trainer. so I can't calibrate.

I have no problem with the Ant+ connection on the laptop but its not possible to sent a calibration command from the laptop. Not sure if its the latest version of ios that has changed something regarding bluetooth connections or the trainer has an issue

 

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3 hours ago, Limited said:

Does anyone know how to reset an Elite Drivo. Its seems unable to get a connection over bluetooth, My phone gets a preliminary connection but the blue light indicating a connection continues to flash. and the elite app can't find the trainer. so I can't calibrate.

I have no problem with the Ant+ connection on the laptop but its not possible to sent a calibration command from the laptop. Not sure if its the latest version of ios that has changed something regarding bluetooth connections or the trainer has an issue

 

Interesting. I'm about calibrate my Direto later today using the app and iPad mini. I will let you know how it goes. 

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I managed to calibrate using an old Samsung tablet. Looks like it’s an issue with the latest iOS. Have noticed my watch isn’t connecting to the phone all the time since the latest update too. 

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14 minutes ago, Limited said:

I managed to calibrate using an old Samsung tablet. Looks like it’s an issue with the latest iOS. Have noticed my watch isn’t connecting to the phone all the time since the latest update too. 

Interesting.  I use Zwift on a MacBook but via Ant+ because my MacBook is too old for the BT that Zwift requires.

I actually want to do a test later, where I'm running Zwift on my iPad and using the MacBook to watch Netflix over a BT speaker.  I'm attempting Full PRL this weekend and I've never watched movies or anything while Zwifting (usually just music via phone).

I will see if they play nice together.

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OK, so trying out my MacBook/iPad combo worked well, no issues with connection.  I hadn't used the iPad in ages and had to wait for a massive Zwift upgrade and an Elite one.

I did notice I am two IOS upgrades behind but I didn't update that and the Elite calibration worked fine.

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On 15/05/2020 at 5:51 PM, FatPom said:

I've never changed from the default 50%. I think the theory is that if you have it at less than 50%, it does soften the gradient but also reduces your speed to compensate but not sure.

It's hard enough getting up that radio tower as it is!

I haven’t changed it from 50% either. From what I’ve read they’ve done that not so much to make the ups easier but the downs harder. As in most people are using the trainer for a workout, if trainer set to 100% then you’d spin out the downhill.

The other thing to watch out for is getting dropped from groups on the downhill. With settings less than 50% then the roads are getting pretty ‘flat’ so higher resistance downhill, hence higher power output possible. 

Uphill speed is determined by w/kg (must be relative to gradient though?) so it doesn’t matter what setting your trainer is, might mean you don’t need a granny gear up the alpe or yes the dreaded radio tower. I only just make it up at default settings!

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Thanks gplama for your notes on Apple TV with recent update. Was doing my head in! I liked the previous version better where devices could be shared between Apple TV and linked through companion. That way if phone runs out of battery, I was only dropping hr. 

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8 hours ago, Kenneth said:

I haven’t changed it from 50% either. From what I’ve read they’ve done that not so much to make the ups easier but the downs harder. As in most people are using the trainer for a workout, if trainer set to 100% then you’d spin out the downhill.

Hrm, that's not what I've read.

All it does is smooth gradients out. So gradient changes are not as abrupt. You still need to put in the same power to get up or down gradients. 

I have mine pretty low as I'm a big guy. I've never seen me disadvantaged on a downhill. 

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26 minutes ago, dazmuzza said:

Hrm, that's not what I've read.

All it does is smooth gradients out. So gradient changes are not as abrupt. You still need to put in the same power to get up or down gradients. 

I have mine pretty low as I'm a big guy. I've never seen me disadvantaged on a downhill. 

 

It can be an advantage downhill as it feels like a lower gradient so you still have something to pedal against.  But then that power you produce is applied to the actual gradient in game so you go faster.

 

Going up hill it makes it easier to spin instead of grind, but you are right you still need to produce the power either way.

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I didn't know about this setting. Mine is set to 50% which might explain I'm Zwift's answer to Contador in the hills. I've now set it to 100% so life is going to get a bit harder I guess..

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3 minutes ago, zed said:

I didn't know about this setting. Mine is set to 50% which might explain I'm Zwift's answer to Contador in the hills. I've now set it to 100% so life is going to get a bit harder I guess..

bloody west australians

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Recently started having Zwift Conmpanion app problems, any ideas on solutions are welcome, pls.  Sorry if my techno language is poor, here goes....

The set-up is Apple TV 4th gen, using Companion app on an iPhone 7+, with Quark Dzero power & cadence, Viiiiva HRM, located in the pain cave under the house. WiFi is a Billion router/modem, we are on NBN, sometimes the iPhone settings say 4G, other times it says 5G, the signal has to go through about 5 walls and then floor boards. 

There are no drop-outs on the Apple TV WiFi connection and it holds the signal, but recently sometimes the Companion app does not always connect.  Sometimes it connects and shows 1 or 2 bars and holds the signal for hours as I climb Alpe d Z....but then sometimes it loses connection and switches to 4G logo.  I read on some of the trouble shooting sites that the companion app needs to be on the same WiFi network as the Zwift connection, I suppose that is why it will not work when the companion app says 4G?.  As mentioned, the Apple TV picks up and holds the WiFi signal, but the Companion app only does it sometimes.

Any suggestions?

I did hardwire the Apple TV direct to the modem, but it did not solve it (but do I need to change the iPhone settings?)

Should I look at a booster or repeater for the WiFi - suggested brands or models?  A few days ago I heard someone on radio mention a Linksys WRT something?

GPLama - thanks for your video on pairing via the companion app.  Should this solve my problem?  I tried to do it but could not get it working.  Not sure if it was me, or the same problem mentioned above.

 

Thanks.

 

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7 minutes ago, walker said:

Recently started having Zwift Conmpanion app problems, any ideas on solutions are welcome, pls.  Sorry if my techno language is poor, here goes....

The set-up is Apple TV 4th gen, using Companion app on an iPhone 7+, with Quark Dzero power & cadence, Viiiiva HRM, located in the pain cave under the house. WiFi is a Billion router/modem, we are on NBN, sometimes the iPhone settings say 4G, other times it says 5G, the signal has to go through about 5 walls and then floor boards. 

There are no drop-outs on the Apple TV WiFi connection and it holds the signal, but recently sometimes the Companion app does not always connect.  Sometimes it connects and shows 1 or 2 bars and holds the signal for hours as I climb Alpe d Z....but then sometimes it loses connection and switches to 4G logo.  I read on some of the trouble shooting sites that the companion app needs to be on the same WiFi network as the Zwift connection, I suppose that is why it will not work when the companion app says 4G?.  As mentioned, the Apple TV picks up and holds the WiFi signal, but the Companion app only does it sometimes.

Any suggestions?

I did hardwire the Apple TV direct to the modem, but it did not solve it (but do I need to change the iPhone settings?)

Should I look at a booster or repeater for the WiFi - suggested brands or models?  A few days ago I heard someone on radio mention a Linksys WRT something?

GPLama - thanks for your video on pairing via the companion app.  Should this solve my problem?  I tried to do it but could not get it working.  Not sure if it was me, or the same problem mentioned above.

 

Thanks.

 

My Apple TV connects to my Kickr which does power cadence and speed and I have my Tickr which connects. Why do you need your Zwift companion app? I just use mine for in game messaging, map reading, power-ups etc

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Yes, need the Companion app for the same reasons - to use Power ups, in game messaging, Ride-On's etc.

The Apple TV remote is so difficult to use.

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13 minutes ago, walker said:

Yes, need the Companion app for the same reasons - to use Power ups, in game messaging, Ride-On's etc.

The Apple TV remote is so difficult to use.

".but then sometimes it loses connection and switches to 4G logo"

that's to do with your home wifi, nothing to do with the companion app. Does your modem have a 5GHZ option? As in you get two wifi points, one with 5G.

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1 hour ago, zed said:

".but then sometimes it loses connection and switches to 4G logo"

that's to do with your home wifi, nothing to do with the companion app. Does your modem have a 5GHZ option? As in you get two wifi points, one with 5G.

Yeah, if I forget to connect to my wi-fi extender and stay connected to the primary wi-fi I have the same issue. Soon as I connect to the extender and have a nice stable connection it is all good.

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1 hour ago, zed said:

that's to do with your home wifi, nothing to do with the companion app. Does your modem have a 5GHZ option? As in you get two wifi points, one with 5G.

Yes, when I am upstairs near the modem and check the phone WiFi settings it give me 2 choices - my home Network name with 5G, and another option with just the home Network name (I assume 4G ?).  Other tech stuff upstairs near the modem also indicates 5G connection. 

But when I am downstairs, the phone WiFi settings only has the home Network name 4G, (without the extra 5G).

I just checked the Apple TV connection settings - it defaults to the "usual" (4G ?) network connection with 4 out of 5 bar strength.  It also has the option of 5G connection, but that only shows 1 bar strength.  

It does seem like I will need a WiFi extender, as Naut has used to solve the problem.

Any ideas on a particular brand / model?

Or, I just saw Apple Thunderbolt to Ethernet adapter on JB HiFi - would this work?  As mentioned, I have a spare hardwired cable that I can use.

Thanks for your help.  Hope I am explaining things, this tech stuff not my language.

 

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20 minutes ago, walker said:

Yes, when I am upstairs near the modem and check the phone WiFi settings it give me 2 choices - my home Network name with 5G, and another option with just the home Network name (I assume 4G ?).  Other tech stuff upstairs near the modem also indicates 5G connection. 

But when I am downstairs, the phone WiFi settings only has the home Network name 4G, (without the extra 5G).

I just checked the Apple TV connection settings - it defaults to the "usual" (4G ?) network connection with 4 out of 5 bar strength.  It also has the option of 5G connection, but that only shows 1 bar strength.  

It does seem like I will need a WiFi extender, as Naut has used to solve the problem.

Any ideas on a particular brand / model?

Or, I just saw Apple Thunderbolt to Ethernet adapter on JB HiFi - would this work?  As mentioned, I have a spare hardwired cable that I can use.

Thanks for your help.  Hope I am explaining things, this tech stuff not my language.

 

I use a D-Link DAP-1650 which I bought after some minimal research. My main criteria was good review, doesn't look too ugly and supports both 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

Was pretty easy to set-up and I have had no issues with it. My 11 year old daughter is now an expert at jumping between networks on her iPad to maximise her YouTube experience

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That was my first race with people getting pinged for sand bagging. It was great! I tried to hang with the front 3 guys, but they were sitting on 5w/kg and didn't drop. We then passed them 10mins later as they were trundling along at 20km/hr lol The race went so much better. A large lead pack that got smaller and smaller each lap. Winner of D would have got 2nd last in C, winner of C would have got 3rd last in B. Previous races, winners of D and C would have been top 5 in A.

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1 hour ago, zed said:

That was my first race with people getting pinged for sand bagging. It was great! I tried to hang with the front 3 guys, but they were sitting on 5w/kg and didn't drop. We then passed them 10mins later as they were trundling along at 20km/hr lol The race went so much better. A large lead pack that got smaller and smaller each lap. Winner of D would have got 2nd last in C, winner of C would have got 3rd last in B. Previous races, winners of D and C would have been top 5 in A.

oh do they get, wound down to 20 Kph if they go over a threshold? This should be good other than the start

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14 hours ago, BarryBevan said:

oh do they get, wound down to 20 Kph if they go over a threshold? This should be good other than the start

 

I wonder if there is a warning system.

 

I don't race much on Zwift but whenever I do I seem to be between C and D grade.  Might keep entering D until I get pinged just to see what happens.

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One thing I've noticed in free riding that someone will be charging up the boarsd7.0w/kg plus,  then their name will be in orange or a few second, then they will back off for a couple of minutes and do it again.

 I'm assuming they've worked out how long the amber warning is before they get the cone of shame?

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5 hours ago, Toolish said:

 

I wonder if there is a warning system.

 

I don't race much on Zwift but whenever I do I seem to be between C and D grade.  Might keep entering D until I get pinged just to see what happens.

Are you signed up to zwiftpower toolish? There’s some good info on there about where you are and you get an ‘almost c’ notation next to your grade when pushing the limit. 

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23 hours ago, BarryBevan said:

oh do they get, wound down to 20 Kph if they go over a threshold? This should be good other than the start

Not sure what they got wound down to, I think it's a certain wattage. One of the  guys jumped on the end of our group and stayed there for a bit, but then dropped off after 2 mins.

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5 minutes ago, zed said:

Not sure what they got wound down to, I think it's a certain wattage. One of the  guys jumped on the end of our group and stayed there for a bit, but then dropped off after 2 mins.

Ah I read where Jordan Rapp was saying that since they entered D they throttle them back so they race like a D even if putting out A watts

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26 minutes ago, BarryBevan said:

Ah I read where Jordan Rapp was saying that since they entered D they throttle them back so they race like a D even if putting out A watts

Yeah don't know. The guys that got done in my race, it was game over, not sure what power they were putting out, but it would have been 100 - 130w. So they would have come last and got a DQ. They don't throttle you back to what a typical D grade would race at, they throttle you back so your race is over.

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6 minutes ago, zed said:

Yeah don't know. The guys that got done in my race, it was game over, not sure what power they were putting out, but it would have been 100 - 130w. So they would have come last and got a DQ. They don't throttle you back to what a typical D grade would race at, they throttle you back so your race is over.

sounds good, I might have to race this afternoon assuming i can get out of my lockdown funk

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13 minutes ago, BarryBevan said:

sounds good, I might have to race this afternoon assuming i can get out of my lockdown funk

Don't think many guys get pinged in B, don't think there is a heap of difference between B and A? Good B can keep up with A.

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1 hour ago, zed said:

Don't think many guys get pinged in B, don't think there is a heap of difference between B and A? Good B can keep up with A.

good thing I'm a bad B

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