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Paretojack

What lifetime do wheels get?

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Hey,

I'm beginning to bust a few spokes on these wheels. The nipples are breaking off at the rim. Rims and brake surface seem fine.

They are 3 years old, have about 6000km on them and carry around a svelte 90kg rider.

I'd prefer not to have tp buy another set of wheels, but is this the kind of lifetime I can expect? 

 

Wheels.PNG

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I roll on ksyriums that must be as old as my bike, so 20 years.  Maybe it's a problem with tensioning up the spokes, maybe to tight or something?  I broke one spoke about 8 years ago, but haven't touched them since.

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They are the sort of specs people used to use to build their “bulletproof” training wheels. 

Only things I can suggest is that they skimped on the spokes, may have been a bad bunch of spokes, or the old scenario where one spoke busting puts the others under stress and they give too (ie bad luck) 

 

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My wheels must be coming up on 20 years, in the 12 years I've had then they have never given me a minutes problem.

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That should be a quality rim. I road sapim spokes in open pro rims for about 6 years doing 300km+ a week. I was 80+kg and a lot of it was on rough roads, climbing, and bunny hopping on to gutters and bike tracks. It was eventually the front rim braking surface gave out on me. I think I broke 1 or 2 spokes in that time.

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I usually wear through the braking surface on the front rim before anything else starts to go. Typically around the 25,000km mark.

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2 hours ago, Rob said:

I usually wear through the braking surface on the front rim before anything else starts to go. Typically around the 25,000km mark.

At least with the shift towards disc brakes, you can replace the rotor rather than the whole rim.

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How do you know when a rim is worn out?

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57 minutes ago, goughy said:

How do you know when a rim is worn out?

When you're wheel collapses while braking at the bottom of a decent   

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I'll keep my eye open when I hit the bottom of the range!

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4 hours ago, goughy said:

How do you know when a rim is worn out?

They usually have little wear indicators drilled into them.

Bontrager have just started a 2 year crash replacement deal with a heavily discounted replacement policy after the 2 years

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So if the little hole appears in your rim, time for a replacement??

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13 minutes ago, goughy said:

So if the little hole appears in your rim, time for a replacement??

Assuming you wheel has then, if you can’t see the holes then they are worn out. They don’t go the whole way through, like wear indicators on tyres

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7 hours ago, goughy said:

How do you know when a rim is worn out?

I wore mine so thin the join in the alloy separated in a section. Luckily the piece that went out was the leading edge, so it just slowed me down rubbing on the brakes each revolution rather than jamming against it suddenly & tearing the rim apart.

I was wondering why I was struggling to keep up with my mate for the last 30km of that ride. ;)

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1 hour ago, Naut said:

Assuming you wheel has then, if you can’t see the holes then they are worn out. They don’t go the whole way through, like wear indicators on tyres

Ok, I was thinking of it the other way round.  That the hole way party way through from the inside, so it appeared when they were worn.  But it's the other way eh.

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My wiife's wheelset suddenly broke a couple of spokes at the nipple.  Turned out she'd ridden through some deep water (15-20cm deep) when the river had a kingtide and it overflowed onto the bikepath.  Looks like the saltwater reacted with the spoke/nipple and it has snapped.  

Could be your culprit if that's happened to you?

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Buy a tension meter and check spoke tension about $100 for Park Tools.

For rim wear, apart  from indicator holes and lines, check concavity using a steel ruler, and use a micrometer or dental caliper to check wall thickness at various places.

Having a wheel fail catastrophically can be bad news.

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

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Took wheel to LBS where they spoke in a hushed, reverential tone about “The Wheel Builder” who they regard as a Zen Master.

Received a call from him yesterday. He’s going to rebuild wheel, replace aluminium nipples with brass and retension. Remainder of hardware felt to be OK. Fingers crossed.

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Aluminium nipples are the problem. They just aren't as robust as brass or SS. 

I have a pair of Chris King / Mavic CXP33s / DT Swiss 14-15 / Brass DT nipples that I have had for 12 years and now they are doing service on my cross bike, so sometimes it is just the ingredients in the pie!

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I didn't even know you could get aluminium nipples on decent wheels. They should never have been built that way. I've always had brass, other than the cheap anodized wheels on my fixie.

 

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Yeah, Mavic make some with Alu nipples (tee-he.... sorry) and brass is the way to go. Brass is still fairly light duty as it's a "much metal", but much stronger than Alu.

I used to have a pair of Mavic Open 4CD Ceramics / Ultegra hubs / DT 14-15 / Brass nipples which were tied, glued and soldered and they were the business. They are still doing service on a mate's pub bike 23 years later! Would love to know anyone with the patience to do tie / glue / solder nowadays.....

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On 09/02/2019 at 3:15 PM, goughy said:

How do you know when a rim is worn out?

often the first sign is when braking you can hear a ticking noise - it's a tiny hole somewhere. Another way is when a flat blows the side of the rim off! Happened to a guy in our bunch once.

On 09/02/2019 at 8:58 PM, goughy said:

So if the little hole appears in your rim, time for a replacement??

That is when you hear a "tic tic tic" when braking - time for a new rim.

On 14/02/2019 at 9:27 PM, Ex-Hasbeen said:

I didn't even know you could get aluminium nipples on decent wheels. They should never have been built that way. I've always had brass, other than the cheap anodized wheels on my fixie.

 

 

On 14/02/2019 at 10:38 PM, Rimmer said:

Yeah, Mavic make some with Alu nipples (tee-he.... sorry) and brass is the way to go. Brass is still fairly light duty as it's a "much metal", but much stronger than Alu.

I used to have a pair of Mavic Open 4CD Ceramics / Ultegra hubs / DT 14-15 / Brass nipples which were tied, glued and soldered and they were the business. They are still doing service on a mate's pub bike 23 years later! Would love to know anyone with the patience to do tie / glue / solder nowadays.....

I have built plenty of wheels with alloy nipples and never had any problems - on MTB wheels as well that suffer much more abuse than a road wheel. And let me tell you they are not cheaper to buy than brass nipples. They will save you around 60g on the rim. 

Edited by Slowman

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