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Tyres, Tubeless ready, which ones.

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Considering one busted spoke turned to 3 without any riding Ill be having a long talk with the bike shop this arvo.

 

All spokes have sheared at the nipple, and as far as I am aware (since its all front wheel its easy to spot) have occurred when not riding.

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Considering one busted spoke turned to 3 without any riding Ill be having a long talk with the bike shop this arvo.

 

All spokes have sheared at the nipple, and as far as I am aware (since its all front wheel its easy to spot) have occurred when not riding.

I'd be pushing them pretty hard for a complete respoke or replacement wheels. Either the wheels were built with a dud batch of spokes or they have been massively over tensioned. It would take a lot of abuse to break spokes on a front MTB wheel assuming they are built correctly!

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15 psi???? I thought I was low with 20 psi. (2.8inch wide)

Laziness. Had ridden about 8 times without pumping or using the gauge. Not my best work.

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My 29er Giant rims have been fine with the Maxxis Ikon tubeless tyres. Have had one issue with burping but my fault running about 15psi

Just had a Demo on the Ikons by a guy who runs them. Highly impressed with the tread on the 2.2's,

same as other Maxxis I guess.

 

Then another guy showed his Schwalbe Rocket's, a lighter tire, right. He complained of occassional

punctures or flats and he showed me the areas of sealant spread and seepage, which was evident

over maybe 20% of the surface.

 

Since the Maxxis are about half the price of the Schwalbe's, and I don't like hassling with the

sealant, I think I'm going with the Ikon's.

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The LBS replaced all the nipples with brass ones to prevent it "hopefully" happening again.

 

So I will ride it a few times then if it is all ok , the said they will do the rear as well then tubeless it for me.

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The LBS replaced all the nipples with brass ones to prevent it "hopefully" happening again.

 

So I will ride it a few times then if it is all ok , the said they will do the rear as well then tubeless it for me.

 

Good,result there

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no need to detatch the tyre

just put new sealant in through valve

Yes the Stans tubeless valves are able to be unscrewed so the valve mechanism comes out of the stem. You need a Stans sealant syringe to do it easily though for a top up. The end screws onto the valve stem but just ensure air is getting in an out through the stem before you attach it otherwise you might have a battle on your hands. And if you think you can overcome the resistance with force you will probably blow the tube off the end of the syringe and get sealant everywhere! Been there done that. The syringe needs to be washed out afterwards too as it can gum up.

 

Some times I just pop the bead open and pour it in using a squirt bottle I have with a nozzle. Here is a neat trick that can help the sealant seal bigger holes and sidewall holes like one I have that is causing a slow leaker...

 

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A good option is Ikon rear Ardent Race front. With the Ardent race on the front you can predict losing the front better than with the Ikon in my experience. In comparison th eIkon is vague and does not give you as much notice before letting go.

 

15 psi WAY too low. You must almost be rolling the tyre off the rim. It is also a very good way to destroy your rims. If you are 65-70kgs you can get away with 20-25. I ran 22 most times on loose over hard pack and technical courses. Heavier riders need more psi.

 

Edit: If you are having trouble getting the bead to set try alittle dishwashing liquid on the bead and a taking out the valve core before trying to inflate it first time. It will go down again after you unhook the compressor. Then re inflate after putting Stans in.

 

Don't over inflate with stans in or you will look like the money shot at the end of a porn movie :boff:

Edited by thekeeper
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i went for a ride the other day and got two flats. one pinch flat and i noticed the other tyre was flat when i got home later.

 

i am still battling with how much pressure to put in my tyres. i prefer to have them around 50-60psi but i realise this is too much. if they are lower, around 30 psi i feel more prone to pinch flats.

 

i think i might convert to tubless soonish.

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i went for a ride the other day and got two flats. one pinch flat and i noticed the other tyre was flat when i got home later.

 

i am still battling with how much pressure to put in my tyres. i prefer to have them around 50-60psi but i realise this is too much. if they are lower, around 30 psi i feel more prone to pinch flats.

 

i think i might convert to tubless soonish.

How much do you weigh?

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Dromana

I have settled on 28 front 30 rear for a 29inch DS XC bike, I weigh 88kg

The ride gets harsh at above 35psi. I'm running tubes but may go tubeless when I buy new tires soon

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90

30 is probably at the lower limit running tubes at 90kg. Use a good digital gauge if you aren't already. I've had 2 digital gauges which read 2-3 psi lower than my 2 track pumps... (1 is a top end pump). 3psi can make a lot of difference with mtb tyres. For all-round fun and handling, stick a 2.35 chunky tyre (Nobby Nic etc) up front and 2.25 faster rolling tyre the back. Run them tubeless at 25-28 as a starting point.

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30 is probably at the lower limit running tubes at 90kg. Use a good digital gauge if you aren't already. I've had 2 digital gauges which read 2-3 psi lower than my 2 track pumps... (1 is a top end pump). 3psi can make a lot of difference with mtb tyres. For all-round fun and handling, stick a 2.35 chunky tyre (Nobby Nic etc) up front and 2.25 faster rolling tyre the back. Run them tubeless at 25-28 as a starting point.

Thank you

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30 is probably at the lower limit running tubes at 90kg. Use a good digital gauge if you aren't already. I've had 2 digital gauges which read 2-3 psi lower than my 2 track pumps... (1 is a top end pump). 3psi can make a lot of difference with mtb tyres. For all-round fun and handling, stick a 2.35 chunky tyre (Nobby Nic etc) up front and 2.25 faster rolling tyre the back. Run them tubeless at 25-28 as a starting point.

Great advice here

Thanks chookie

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Don't over inflate with stans in or you will look like the money shot at the end of a porn movie :boff:

funny but not funny when it happens!

 

...For all-round fun and handling, stick a 2.35 chunky tyre (Nobby Nic etc) up front and 2.25 faster rolling tyre the back. Run them tubeless at 25-28 as a starting point.

Racing Ralphs fit that bill. Never tried 2.35 up front but it makes sense especially on my HT with only 80mm travel.

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The LBS replaced all the nipples with brass ones to prevent it "hopefully" happening again.

 

So I will ride it a few times then if it is all ok , the said they will do the rear as well then tubeless it for me.

 

So this weekend two of the rear nipples snapped (both in the garage not riding) so the pair are in to get the rear nipples redone then tubeless.

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Â

So this weekend two of the rear nipples snapped (both in the garage not riding) so the pair are in to get the rear nipples redone then tubeless.Â

something isn't right here... (no shit Sherlock). Were they drive side spokes? There has to be a straightforward reason as to why spokes are breaking without mechanical interference (sticks, rider weight etc). Either rubbish spokes and nipples, massive over tensioning, uneven tension between spokes on the same side. IMO the wheels need to be stripped down and rebuilt. Also keep in mind that if spokes are tensioned with tyres fitted and inflated, when the tyre goes flat or is removed, spoke tension increases quite a lot.

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No they guys at the shop (ABC Bikes) reckon its a poor design, using alloy nipples. They are the Giant wheels. The nipples are literally failing, just popping apart with the "flange" coming away. They are just respoking the wheels with brass nipples (no charge).

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If travelling with tubeless. Can you depend on a conventional pump to pump them up?

 

How about high pressure pumps in Servo's? Is their any adaptor for that?

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