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Rog

Cervelo P3 slipping seatpost

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Anyone had this issue before? I'm trying to avoid over tightening the bolts but it is kind of annoying me now.

 

I've tried carbon paste to no avail, what else can I do? Is it because of all the power I'm putting down on the pedals ?

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Well, I'm no expert, but I have been doing mechanical stuff all my life. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just used my wrist gauge to tighten the bolts, and am not having any slippage issues. Getting both sides evenly tensioned, with no angle on the dangle is very important.

 

Or maybe it's all teh powah !!

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Sounds like its time for a new bike rog.

 

 

:lol:

 

this is his new bike :S

Edited by hiltz

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I don't have a torque wrench, so I just used my wrist gauge to tighten the bolts, and am not having any slippage issues.

 

 

Me too, mine does not slip. Then again I weigh nothing and would be lucky to produce 200W of power.

 

When my Soloist started slipping, I grabbed a bit of sandpaper and roughed up the carbon on the section which was inside the seat-tube (use masking tape on the bit above which is visible else it will get all roughed up and look crappy). I also used the TACX cabon paste on it.

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Thanks for the tips, I'll try sanding it first and if it doesn't work I might give the coke shim a go.

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coke shim first.

 

It definitely works. Just needs to be around the sharp bit of the seatpost though.....

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Thanks for the tips, I'll try sanding it first and if it doesn't work I might give the coke shim a go.

 

 

I'd try just nipping the bolts up a bit tighter first - nothing too drastic, maybe just a little more than your usual tension with the torque wrench

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I'd try just nipping the bolts up a bit tighter first - nothing too drastic, maybe just a little more than your usual tension with the torque wrench

 

 

Yeah @thommo I've tried that and have gone as far as I think my "wrist torque" will allow without getting nervous. It lasts for a few days and then starts slipping again. From what I can tell the bolts might even be loosening up a bit over a few days...

 

I actually want to get it sorted cause I'm getting sick of it to the point that I will eventually overtighten it and do some damage.

Edited by Rog

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Yeah @thommo I've tried that and have gone as far as I think my "wrist torque" will allow without getting nervous.

 

I actually want to get it sorted cause I'm getting sick of it to the point that I will eventually overtighten it and do some damage.

 

 

Yup, fair enough. Try the coke can or sandpaper then.

 

You should have seen the sh*t I had wedged in my Soloist where the seat head slots into the top of the carbon post. Several big chunks of brass & I used to hammer down there with the big rubber mallet. Had to replace them every few weeks. This was not the seat post slipping, but the seat head rocking back & forwards. I put up with that dodgy setup for 2 years, all the time looking for a seatpost on Ebay cos I wasn't going to fork out $300 for a new one (I did try a new seat head = $50, but that was not the problem).

 

Eventually, I got a basically brand new post on Ebay for $71 ;)

 

No more rocking chair.....but there is still an annoying click somewhere every-time the right crank goes thru 6 o'clock :sleepy:

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...but there is still an annoying click somewhere every-time the right crank goes thru 6 o'clock :sleepy:

 

My CAAD10 has that atm under power, not impressed...

Edited by Cape_Horn

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If its the drive side crank at 6 o clock check your crank is not flicking your front derailleur cable as it goes past.

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.

 

, what else can I do?

 

I think its much better for you to be racing on a road bike at Kurnell. much safer that way and no issues with slipping set post.... just some friendly advice...... :schnauz:

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I think its much better for you to be racing on a road bike at Kurnell. much safer that way and no issues with slipping set post.... just some friendly advice...... :schnauz:

 

 

Ha! You'd better be swimming well my friend cause you won't be getting away on the bike this season ;)

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what else can I do?

 

Sand the post around the area to be inserted in the frame, just enough to remove the sheen.

Clean the post and the inside of the frame.

Spray the sanded section of post with hair spray (it gets tacky when it dries).

Insert post and tighten.

 

You can get one of the allen key torque wrench thingies (I forgot who does them, I'll look it up later).

You can get individual ones that are preset to 5nm for example.

 

You should only need to make a shim (coke can method) if there is to much clearance between the post and the frame.

 

disclaimer, I have no experience with a P3 though.

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Just tighten it till your terrified it is going to crack... Then give it a quarter turn more.

 

Torque wrench? Pfft, in the words of Obi-Wan "Put away the targeting scanner Luke, use The Force."

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Yeah @thommo I've tried that and have gone as far as I think my "wrist torque" will allow without getting nervous. It lasts for a few days and then starts slipping again. From what I can tell the bolts might even be loosening up a bit over a few days...

 

I actually want to get it sorted cause I'm getting sick of it to the point that I will eventually overtighten it and do some damage.

 

Come down for a drive with your better half this weekend. You guys can go out for lunch and a coffee after!

I can check the torque with a torque wrench as well as insert a brass shim.

 

PM me if you are interested

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Yeah had the same drama. Take the back plate off. File it down buy a few mm and re-install. Sometimes the little metal plate is a smidge to wide and does grip as tight as needed. Since doing it I have had NIL dramas.

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My CAAD10 has that atm under power, not impressed...

 

I don't know much about the torque specs of the p3, so I'll leave that one alone.

 

Is your caad10 brand spanking new? It's possible the cranks just weren't done up tight enough in the first place. The manufacturer recommends about 50nm, but they come out of the box with about 40. 50 is pretty much as tight as you can with a foot long Allen key. I know this because I used to sell a fair number of card 10's, and very rarely did they come out of the box with the cranks done up tight enough.

 

Take it back to the seller, or if they are not known for their mechanical expertise Either do it yourself or pay someone who knows what they are doing. Pm me if you need any further advice

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If its the drive side crank at 6 o clock check your crank is not flicking your front derailleur cable as it goes past.

 

 

Nope, that is clear.

 

Like the CAAD 10, it's worse under power.

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Just tighten it till your terrified it is going to crack... Then give it a quarter turn more.

 

Torque wrench? Pfft, in the words of Obi-Wan "Put away the targeting scanner Luke, use The Force."

 

 

Been there, done that and it costed me time and money getting a new seat post clamp on the roady.

 

Torque wrench is $100 well spent I reckon. That extra 1/4 of a turn can ruin your day.

Edited by softy

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Rog/Harts are you on 2012 P3s?

I haven't had anything like this on my 2011, but my mate Mossy is almost ready to throw his 2012 on the tip the other day because of it.

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I don't know much about the torque specs of the p3, so I'll leave that one alone.

 

Is your caad10 brand spanking new? It's possible the cranks just weren't done up tight enough in the first place. The manufacturer recommends about 50nm, but they come out of the box with about 40. 50 is pretty much as tight as you can with a foot long Allen key. I know this because I used to sell a fair number of card 10's, and very rarely did they come out of the box with the cranks done up tight enough.

 

Take it back to the seller, or if they are not known for their mechanical expertise Either do it yourself or pay someone who knows what they are doing. Pm me if you need any further advice

 

 

OP - Sorry for the hijack.

 

it isn't the front derailleur cable.

Happens under power when drive side crank hits 6 o'clock.

Started about a month ago, it is the 2012 w/105, brought in December.

 

(So tempted just to buy a set of the new sram red and replace it all...)

 

I will take it in to a guy I trust, don't think I have an allen key that big.

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Same problem with My 2009 P3, carbon paste didn't work & screws kept loosening on roads. Plate was shaved a bit & used loctite, seemed to fix it & i have had no more issues :smile1:

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I have heard this is a common problem on the cervelo Road bikes due to some wedge system they use with the seat post. I know of atleast 2 case in the last 2-3 weeks. I will seek and report back.

 

PS: Rog.... would it be because you do weights in the off season like Jurgen Zack used to do and your just too strong?

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Wouldn't the more power you put down take mean there is less stress on the seat post in a downward motion?

 

Maybe he's just fat?*

 

 

*I know the damn bastard isn't fat.

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Mine is 2008. The metal piece I'm referring to is the bit that has the torque ratings printed on it. Remove that. File 2mm from the front face of it then re-screw it on.

 

(null)

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Thanks guys, mine is 2010 I think? It's the red and white one.

 

Cheers

Rog

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Yeah had the same drama. Take the back plate off. File it down buy a few mm and re-install. Sometimes the little metal plate is a smidge to wide and does grip as tight as needed. Since doing it I have had NIL dramas.

 

Mine is 2008. The metal piece I'm referring to is the bit that has the torque ratings printed on it. Remove that. File 2mm from the front face of it then re-screw it on.

 

(null)

 

So this plate makes hard contact with the other surface long before there is enough torque on the seat post, right?

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Rog...Otter ( and Argon ) told me personally that I would be the fastest, most aerodynamic and putting out mega watts if I bought the E-118. Especially if I wore red, black and white kit!

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Rog...Otter ( and Argon ) told me personally that I would be the fastest, most aerodynamic and putting out mega watts if I bought the E-118. Especially if I wore red, black and white kit!

 

 

You have read Otter's race reports haven't you?

 

He was joking! :lol:

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So this plate makes hard contact with the other surface long before there is enough torque on the seat post, right?

 

 

Yep. There should be a decent gap between each side of this plate and the frame when the bolts are at 4NM torgue.

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