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Torque wrenches

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call me crazy but i'm not trusting a $40 torque wrench on my $13,000 road bike. Park Tools all the way there mate.

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call me crazy but i'm not trusting a $40 torque wrench on my $13,000 road bike.

 

 

Call me crazy but I'm not stupid enough to have a bike worth $13k :S

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These are pretty good, get on it.

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Do they come with a certificate of calibration?

Can they be recalibrated?

 

If not, dont waste you money. Use an allen key instead.

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If not, dont waste you money. Use an allen key instead.

 

 

Does an Allen Keycome with a certificate of calibration?

Can it be recalibrated?

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Nope, but its cheap and wont give you a false reading.

 

Edit: A allen can be calibrated and recalibrated...its called experience.

Shit torque wrenches giving inaccurate or non-repeatable values are more than worthless, they could be dangerous, especially on a bike.

Edited by Mr Tinman

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Edit: A allen can be calibrated and recalibrated...its called experience.

 

 

Yes but experince may come at a cost. Like a crushed seatpost or the like.

 

I reckon a dodgy Torque wrench would be better then some peoples expereinced hands.

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Depends on how crap is crap. One that is out by maybe 5-10% won't be too bad, still better than a good mechanic. A properly crap one is a waste of money and plain dangerous.

 

This Rog character seems okay so if he's used one and gives it the seal of approval then that'll do me. But then again, when you're dealing with high end equipment on a regular basis a few hundred dollars on a really good torque wrench is pretty cheap insurance really.

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Yes but experince may come at a cost. Like a crushed seatpost or the like.

 

I reckon a dodgy Torque wrench would be better then some peoples expereinced hands.

 

Whats to say you dodgy torque wrench isnt over-torquing to buggery and crushes your seatpost anyway?

Point is, people will keep forcing the part till the wrench says stop.

No one with any kind of mechanical apptitude would do that with an allen key.

 

What if the wrench is under torquing by heaps?

What if you used that wrench to torque the face plate of your stem and then the handlebars slipped (rotated forward and down) after hitting the brakes hard going down a steep hill and caused you to crash?

 

A shit torque wrench will give you a (possible) false sense of security. The torque values we are talking about arent huge or super important either, so any "close" will be fine.

But how do you if you are "close" if the wrench was never calibrated?

 

I spent about $250 on my torque wrench (Warren and Brown, Aussie made, best in the world bar none). It comes with a cert of calibration and can be recalibrated (and should be!)

I dont know about you, but I figured it was an investment. Something that will last a lifetime and I can hand down to my son.

 

As someone that works with tools everyday, I always buy the best tool I can afford. Its an investment, at least thats the way I see it.

But, thats just me :D

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I got a BBB one from my LBS for about $120 last year - looks very similar the one in the original post- but it comes with a certificate of calibration.

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Lol Asher you have some ELITE bikes! So I wouldn't run it past you to own the best tool,

 

Being an artist myself the brush makes a difference and I spend $70 a paintbrush easy.

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I used to calibrate torque wrenches, there is a big difference between a good quality wrench and the cheap ones. Being able to repeat the torque settings within specification is where the cheap ones generally fail.

If you have a torque wrench never use it to undo something or drop it.

 

 

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or you're a tight arse.

 

each to their own.

 

 

If you can justify in performance terms why spending $13K is faster than spending half that I'll listen... But chances are there won't be much of an argument...

 

Most of what that $13k goes towards is marketing so you think its better... In reality, 6k gets you a very very good machine now.

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I used to calibrate torque wrenches, there is a big difference between a good quality wrench and the cheap ones. Being able to repeat the torque settings within specification is where the cheap ones generally fail.

If you have a torque wrench never use it to undo something or drop it.

 

 

So even if the 'cheaper ones' come with a certificate, you wouldnt recommend them? Why not undo anything with them?

Cheers

Rob

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One thing about calibration certificates is that you need to read the small print. I could give you a certificate that stated on the bottom, item is within specification +- 40%. This would make the item pretty useless to use, but you have your certificate.

Calibration of a item actually means we are testing the item to state it was in specification for the period up to the day of testing, you can't say the item will be in spec in the future as you don't know how the item will be treated.

 

I personally wouldn't buy a cheap torque wrench if I needed it for a fragile material, eg carbon seat clamp on my P2.

You don't undo anything with a torque wrench as the internals are designed to have pressure on them in only one direction, (unless it is designed for both left and right threads).damage can be caused which will put the torque settings out.

 

 

 

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Guest samuelEBrown

Thats why I run Alum. everything

Frame, bars...everything

 

So I can torque em up FT

 

f-king Tight :)

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One thing about calibration certificates is that you need to read the small print. I could give you a certificate that stated on the bottom, item is within specification +- 40%. This would make the item pretty useless to use, but you have your certificate.

Calibration of a item actually means we are testing the item to state it was in specification for the period up to the day of testing, you can't say the item will be in spec in the future as you don't know how the item will be treated.

 

I personally wouldn't buy a cheap torque wrench if I needed it for a fragile material, eg carbon seat clamp on my P2.

You don't undo anything with a torque wrench as the internals are designed to have pressure on them in only one direction, (unless it is designed for both left and right threads).damage can be caused which will put the torque settings out.

 

 

 

Thanks kelb. Most imformative.

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Farking hell people. If you don't want one, don't buy one! If you can get within a poofteenth of an actual torque setting using an allen key you need to send your impressive skills to McLaren!

 

I have one of these and have tightened up many things without an issue. If you can't use common sense when using any tool, you should be paying someone else to do it. Suprised no one has brought up the fact the S.D given for the settings is given at 25 deg. c at 1 atomosphere. Which means you can really only fix anything in autumn when the weather is crap and indoors otherwise you will ruin your $## ### bike!

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Yes but experince may come at a cost. Like a crushed seatpost or the like. I reckon a dodgy Torque wrench would be better then some peoples expereinced hands.

Nealo, how dare you use common sense here!

Now go and wash your mouth out with ceramic bearings!

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If you can justify in performance terms why spending $13K is faster than spending half that I'll listen... But chances are there won't be much of an argument...

 

Most of what that $13k goes towards is marketing so you think its better... In reality, 6k gets you a very very good machine now.

 

it's got nothing to do with performance, it's about fun. to me a no name POS carbon frame is not fun, neither is a reid, neither is an azzuri, my bike is more fun because my stem is custom painted to match the frame. cycling is not a necessity, if life was only about necessity we would just eat sugar and vitamin tablets and screw through sheets to make more boring as bat shit tight ass clones of ourselves.

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it's got nothing to do with performance, it's about fun. to me a no name POS carbon frame is not fun, neither is a reid, neither is an azzuri, my bike is more fun because my stem is custom painted to match the frame. cycling is not a necessity, if life was only about necessity we would just eat sugar and vitamin tablets and screw through sheets to make more boring as bat shit tight ass clones of ourselves.

 

 

gold. not to mention correct - life is short.

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Call me crazy but I'm not stupid enough to have a bike worth $13k :S

 

and it's not even my most expensive. but aren't you crazy enough to have a ceepo?

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Fun is blowing away a $100k BMW with a Datsun you built yourself

 

 

Couldn't agree more DD.

 

When it comes to riding, it doesn't matter what I'm riding, what matters is who I'm with and where we're going...

 

Yep I owned 2 Ceepos and have owned god knows how many bikes since and even more before them. A good quality bike that was a bit different.

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I spent about $250 on my torque wrench (Warren and Brown, Aussie made, best in the world bar none). It comes with a cert of calibration and can be recalibrated (and should be!)

I dont know about you, but I figured it was an investment. Something that will last a lifetime and I can hand down to my son.

 

As someone that works with tools everyday, I always buy the best tool I can afford. Its an investment, at least thats the way I see it.

But, thats just me :D

 

 

Dad?? Can I have my torque wrench now??

Edited by Gordo

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Fun is blowing away a $100k BMW with a Datsun you built yourself

 

Datsun 1600 with 2 litre turbo?

 

First car was a 76 celica with a 2 litre twin cam, twin 45dcoe webbers, TRD pistons and exhaust. 190 rwhp and revved to 8500.

Many V8's got smoked by that rusting yellow piece of shit

I loved that car....

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Datsun 1600 with 2 litre turbo?

 

First car was a 76 celica with a 2 litre twin cam, twin 45dcoe webbers, TRD pistons and exhaust. 190 rwhp and revved to 8500.

Many V8's got smoked by that rusting yellow piece of shit

I loved that car....

 

Using that analogy with the race of truth against Roxii. Does that mean that you are the V8 and Roxii is the 1976 Celica?

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Yes but was the head torqued down to the correct setting? :lol:

 

You bet your arse it was...

Using that analogy with the race of truth against Roxii. Does that mean that you are the V8 and Roxii is the 1976 Celica?

 

Im more like a 3 cylinder diesel from a kubota lawn mower these days :(

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Datsun 1600 with 2 litre turbo?

 

 

My brother had the 1600, I had the 180B SSS coupe.

 

Balanced L18 with 280z pistons running engine compression of 10.4 (Av-gas compatible)

Twin 45mm DCOE side draft Webers, Datrally manifold, big port head with 68 degree FIA cam and double valve springs

Lightened flywheel and Datsun 2000 sports clutch, 240K low ratio diff and Stanza 'back the front' gearbox.

Headers and 2" exhaust. Mags wheels.

Heavy duty Selby springs, Rally Gas shocks, urethane bushes, White line sway bars.

Lowered via re-seated McPherson struts and hand filed slotted rear pickup points....(used to baffle the tyre dudes when I asked for a rear wheel alignment)

Camber negative 2 1/2 degrees front and 1 degree negative rear

Half roll cage, Alpine 6 speaker stereo, racing harness, fire extinguisher.

 

No rust. Resprayed by myself in British racing Green, 12 coats of acrylic.

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