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sgriffiths

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About sgriffiths

  • Rank
    Transitions Addict in Progress
  • Birthday March 22

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne

Previous Fields

  • Year of first Tri race?
    2010
  1. Got a front wheel that I'm no longer using. 90mm CC, Boyd, imported from the states March 2014, put <400km on it and then its been in a box. Approximately firecrest shape, deep smooth sided U-shape, slightly lighter than an 808. Stiff, brakes well, generally a lovely wheel. Chuck a disc cover on the back and get aero! Asking $375.
  2. Got a Boyd 90mm carbon clincher, only ridden <300km. ~firecrest shape, wide U with flat sides. If you check slowtwitch they tend to get good solid reviews.
  3. 10s cranks work fine with 11s drivetrain Powertap G3 or GS are definitely easy to swap the freehub body to an 11s compatible one, available online for a reasonable cost. Not sure about the older SL+ etc. Dicking around with different bikes and different drivetrains is barely worth it, consider what your TT derailleurs and shifters are worth to replace. Time for an early christmas present to yourself?
  4. Located in Melbourne. Will consider posting smaller items, unlikely to post the wheels. Mixed Shimano groupset. $225 5600 brifters, crankset (175mm, compact, 50-34) and RD (mid-cage), 6700 FD, Tiagra brakeset, 105 cassette 10-speed, 12-27. Great for a winter bike, commuter, etc. Boyd 90mm front wheel carbon clincher. $400 Go deep or go home. 2014 model, wide and rounded shape, the same profile as they're still using ( http://www.boydcycling.com/products/90mm-clincher-single.html ) . Brakes well and in near-new condition (<300km total). Nicely stiff with Sapim spokes, no harder to handle in cross-winds than an 808, and lighter too. Pair it up with the C24's and the disc-cover rear above and you're all set to beat your mates in the mountains AND on the flats. Shimano 6770 Front and Rear derailleurs. $250 Perfect if you want to convert your TT bike into an electrified TT. Or electrify any bike. Get some bzZZzzt-ing action under your butt, just pick up some of the shifters that other people are selling. They run on the E-tube system, so any of 6770 / 6870 / 9070 shifters will play nicely together. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153782325489359&set=pcb.1919006988324421&type=3&theater
  5. Poor planning (or malice) on shimano's part, the sprint shifter capacity only works with a set of road brifters. You can't plug them directly into a 5-port box, and you can't plug them into bar-end shifters. I know people have done improvised efforts, you could chop up a set of normal TT brifters or probably chop up some bar-ends and use the guts of them to act as shift control components next to your hydraulic brake levers. But that's outside my experience. But yes, ultimately sounds like they've just gone cheap on the brake levers in the original post and you'd just get a friendly LBS to upgrade them when you're purchasing.
  6. Correct me if wrong, but brains for all Di2 are in the FD, hence the balls-up that could occur if you had a 10s FD with an 11s RD. Basic "shift up / shift down" signal sent from shifters to FD via junction boxes, FD does the thinking and sends info to RD, also keeps track of which rear cog you're in to allow trimming.
  7. Slight connection disclaimer (husband of a workmate), Ben the bike tech v(www.benthebiketech.com.au) is out in ferntree gully. Got a wheel with him at the moment as my first point of contact, seems decent, I'll let you know how it goes when I get it back in a few days.
  8. Picked up a single bottle, behind the saddle option, turns out between seat post and saddle setup I can't actually make it work. More mucking around and experimentation to be done, but bta / bento / VR bottle on the frame might have to be the final outcome. Or some home metal-work improvisation.
  9. Hi all. Wondering what everyone's experiences with different sorts of equipment carriage was on their tri bikes. Options such as: - BTA hydration: pretty much a no-brainer given the options and aero data out there now, right? - Behind the saddle: 1 bottle? 2 bottles? Vary between distances? Hydration / nutrition / flat kit / both (if rolling with 2) - Bottles in the triangle? - Top tube mounted bento boxes? Does it matter if your bike doesn't have bolts for fixing stuff on and making it fit 'nicer'. - Anything I've particularly forgotten? Any brands that people would recommend or avoid? Train the way you race, or roll un-aero in training then polish it up shortly before the races?
  10. No connection to the guy, but someone has a set of 3T brezza 2 up for sale on a facebook group. $400, S-bend, stealth grey-black. https://www.facebook.com/groups/586498144700599/permalink/1156811031002638/
  11. sgriffiths

    Being seen

    Flashing reflective armbands available from Bunnings. Slap them on a leg / ankle, combination of rhythmic movement + active light + reflection helps.
  12. I get the increased price with increased complexity vs the old HRM, but why would you want to get both tri and swim??
  13. Rocked a 90mm front and disc cover rear in 2014, probably would have been better with a ~60mm front but no doubt about the disc. Any extra weight I was carrying at the rear was offset (at least a little, I felt) by a bit of a flywheel effect. There's a fair few sections where you've got some shielding from the wind as well.
  14. Got a KK rock-and-roll plus a powertap. 910XT covers head-unit / power management stuff. If I didn't have the powertap hub, would have gone with trainer-road (creates virtual power from speed / cadence input). No experience with trainer road for comparison tho. For workout / entertainment duties, TV / movies or Suffer-fest. Sufferfest's perceived effort can be easily converted to set numbers to aim at with some experimentation. Big props for the KK. Not sure if its truly more comfortable than others with its rocking around, but I've happily spent 2-3hrs on it at a time. Think its probably quieter than others, but the fan requirements for cooling outweigh that aspect anyway. Have used a trainer tyre, haven't done enough time to wear it out so no input on that aspect, or the cleaning up issue. Can always just use an old tyre you wouldn't trust on-road.
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